Peaks of the Balkans

Off the Trail: Fever, Rest, and a Sudden Beach Vacation

After a night plagued with fever dreams for Antonio we decided to stay another night in Kujtim’s Guesthouse, allowing a full rest day before making a decision. His fever broke in the morning but was replaced by a pounding headache and a swollen and sore throat. In the afternoon we went on a short walk around the village to try. It was not good. Even walking slightly uphill on a track without packs left Antonio…

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GR11 Hiking

Day 14 & 15: Long Way Down

Kilometres walked: 20km  / Total distance: 284km/ Elevation gain: 342m / Elevation loss: 1423m / Time walked: 6h5min From our campsite at the lake it’s a short scramble to the top of the next col: Brazato, at about 2500m. More rocks! Compared to yesterday it feels like nothing, although it’s sometimes difficult to make out the trail among all the boulders. It takes us three hours to do 6km. Jumping from rock to rock, constantly…

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GR11 Hiking

Day 9: Fog

Kilometres walked: 19km / Total distance: 212km/ Elevation gain: 872m / Elevation loss: 900m / Time walked: 6h45min Last night was windy, my tent again flapping in the wind. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong when pitching it: all the guylines and corner points are taut but the fly is still billowing. Or maybe I just need to get used to the noise? In any case, earplugs seem to be the remedy. At least…

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GR11 Hiking

Day 5&6: People!

Kilometres walked: 16km / Total distance: 141km / Elevation gain: 326m / Elevation loss: 941m / Time walked: 4h7min. The campsite up the ridge from yesterday is beautiful but I sleep poorly. First, there are lots of cows and horses around and although the sound of their bells is kind of soothing, I keep listening intently to check if they’re coming closer, too close. Irrational fears of a stampede trampling my tent with me inside…

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